Questions and Answers:  Part 3

Rabbit -- spay or spray

From: onionlips

We have a a 6 month old rabbit. We took her to get spayed and she had a reaction to the gas and stopped breathing. They did get her breathing again and did not finish the procedure. We decided not to try it again because we were afraid she may not survive a second attempt. That was two months ago, and she is now maturing and beginning to spray and urinate everywhere. We have read that if spayed, this would decrease this behavior as well as increase the life expectancy of a rabbit Our catch-22 is: shortened life span and her spraying or risk the operation again. Is there any other way to limit this behavior? What risks do you see in perhaps trying to spay again? Thanks you so much for your time. -Floyd

Comments

Hi - sounds like you had a close call, and I don't blame you for being reluctant to try again. Spaying is really the only way to get the spraying under control. Female rabbits are also at a very high risk of uterine cancer as they get older, which is the main reason I recommend spaying them besides the behavior issues. Stopping breathing (respiratory arrest) is scary, but a lot less scary than cardiac arrest, so at least your bunny did not seem to have any heart issues while she was under. The gas anesthesia we use for rabbits can cause apnea (breathing can stop just from the effects of the gas). In cats and dogs, we have a tube in their trachea (windpipe) and can breathe for them very easily if this occurs. Rabbits are notoriously hard to intubate in this manner, and therefore if they quit breathing you could have difficulty getting oxygen to them, and they could then go into cardiac arrest. With any surgery there is always a risk of an anesthetic death, so nobody can promise you a completely safe second try. I have had similar experiences with a few patients, and often a second try at the surgery goes smoothly and without a hitch. One thing that might help (if it was not done) would be premedicating your bunny with something to calm her, something that can control post-operative pain, and therefore allow her to be placed under gas anesthesia without using the highest concentration of gas to get her under anesthesia. The higher the percentage of gas she breathes in, the greater the chance that she could quit breathing. Finding a vet that is comfortable with intubating rabbits is another option, although I cannot help you with where to look. Good luck with whatever you decide. I would try again, because I know the risk of having a recurrence of the same problem is statistically very low, and the behavior problem is already pretty bad, and the risk of cancer later on is great if you don't spay her. Knowing the risks, I hope you can make a decision now. - Susan L. Leck, DVM, ABVP

Comments

Just a happy note for anyone following this thread - I spayed this bunny today and she did just fine! - Susan Leck, DVM, ABVP

Cat scratching Dog

From: Wendy

I have a 9 month old Sheltie and a 4 year old cat. They often "play" together running through the house, but either when playing or when the cat has just had enough, she ends up pawing at the dog's face, with claws out. I unfortunately noticed that at least once where she (my puppy) was scratched on her nose. Any advice on how to prevent some serious wounds happening to my dog? She has very strong herding instincts and tries to herd the cat most of the time, and doesn't appear to back off at all when the cat paws at her. I really would rather not get the cat declawed, but I'm not sure of any other options? Thanks.

Comments

Hi Wendy - Keep your cat's nails trimmed, ideally every 2 weeks or whenever they are getting sharp. This should minimize the damage she can cause. If that does not work, there is a product called Soft Paws that are soft, acrylic caps that you glue onto your cat's nails, sort of like Lee Press On Nails for people, but they are soft and squishy and keep the claw from doing damage to people, other pets, and furniture. The caps are usually well tolerated, and should stay on your cat for about 1-2 months. As the nail grows, the caps will be pushed off. You then cut the nail back and apply a new cap. With practice, application of the caps is not that difficult and this is a much better option than having to declaw your cat. Hopefully your dog will learn to stay out of claw reach until that time. - Susan L. Leck, DVM, ABVP

Dog urinating and defacting throughout the house!

From: Sgirard


I purchased an American Eskimo dog from a petshop. At the time of purchase he seemed very nervous and timid. We have had this dog now for at least 9 months now. This dog loves my children ages 6 and 2. This dog still afraid of adults making training of this dog a nightmare. In the morning when I get up he comes out from under my bed where he likes to sleep but runs away if I try to get her to take her outside. She has never messed in our room, but waits until I am not looking and urinates in the living room. This poor dog must have been abused before we purchased her, but she is not now. She was about 6 months old when we got her. Help!

Comments

Wow, you do have a problem! Start over with the basics. By now I would hope this dog does trust you and feel like a part of your family. Treat her like she is a brand new puppy. Crate training would be best if she can tolerate a crate. If not, then treat the bedroom as the crate. Keep the door shut so she cannot run away from you, and teach her to sit and stay to get the least on. She will have to be crated or kept in the bedroom (as long as she continues not to have accidents in there). I suspect she just has never been housebroken, and she needs basic obedience so she does not run from you. There should be information on our website about crate training and basic obedience. We also offer basic obedience classes - call the clinic for information. This problem will take time to resolve. You have to confine her to an area she views as her den, so she will keep it clean. This is where the crate (or bedroom) come in. The crate should NEVER be used to punish. Teaching her to come, sit, stay, and lie down are very important also and will help your overall control of her. Take her out 3 or 4 times daily on a leash, and lavish praise upon her when she does her 'business' in the proper location outside. When she cannot be monitored closely, she needs to be confined so she will not be selecting areas to soil in the house. Be sure you use an odor eliminating product specifically designed to remove pet waste odors from the carpet, and if the carpet smells to you it may be necessary to replace the carpet and the pad. Good luck, and please let us know if you have any more questions. Patience and consistency with everyone in the house will be very important in achieving success. -Dr. Susan Leck

Kitten being introduced to other cats in family

From: Carol

I am trying to introduce a 10 week old kitten to 3 other cats. A female 4 years, a female 11 years and a male 4 years. Any advice will be helpful.

Comments

Hi Carol - Usually barriers work best. Put the kitten in a room isolated by itself, let the others get used to it's smell. then you can switch and put the kitten where the other kitties were living and let them into the room with the scent of the kitten. Placing the kitten in a carrier for it's safety while the other cats can sniff around is helpful also. With that number of cats, more than likely a couple noses will be out of joint for awhile. Expect hissing, running, hiding, swatting and the like. Just be sure that nobody gets hurt, and never leave a kitten that small unsupervised with the adult cats. Any further questions let us know. - Susan Leck, DVM, ABVP

Comments

Just wanted to tell you that the kitten has been accepted in to the household. Amazing what love and patience can do. -Carol

Bringing rescue dog into family

From: Jenny

Hi, We have a 2 year old female boston terrier who is very spoiled but also very sweet and gentle. We are looking to adopt a rescued 6 year old male boston terrier and my question is: should we be concerned about this dog's age? Specifically, is is going to be impossible for us to shape his personality because he is older. Our dog gets along very well with other dogs and according to the rescue dog's foster mom, so does he. Just curious. Thanks.

Comments

Hi - congratulations on your new adoption. Caution should always be exercised when introducing a new pet into the household - the people you are adopting from should be able to give you plenty of pointers on how to do it right. I would emphasize that you need to be sure your first dog gets regular attention so she doesn't feel "left out" of things with a new arrival. Dogs can fight over food and toys, so you will have to see how they interact with each other. Keeping them in separate crates or rooms when you are not there for immediate supervision is ideal for the first few weeks. Good luck! - Susan Leck, DVM, ABVP

Any danger from feeding cats canned pumpkin?

From: Liz Stanley

My kitten Salem loves canned pumpkin. I read that vitamin A can be toxic, but that cats can't produce their own vitamin A from beta carotene. According to the label on the can, 80% of the vitamin A in that pumpkin comes from beta carotene. My question: is there a recommended safe amount per day to feed canned pumpkin to a cat? At what amount might it become a problem?

Comments

Hi Liz - We commonly recommend using canned pumpkin in cats that need to bulk up their stool to prevent constipation. Pumpkin is an excellent fiber source for kitties, and they usually like it. I would not use more than 1 TBSP daily, as that is the amount I am used to recommending. Like all fiber sources, too much could lead to diarrhea, which is undesirable! I am only familiar with Vitamin A toxicosis in cats fed organ meat like Liver as the majority of their diet. Avoid an excess of food that is not balanced and you should avoid problems. Susan L. Leck, DVM, ABVP

Comments

Thanks for your reply... I'm sure Salem will be happy that he can continue to have a small amount each day! -Liz Stanley

Avian Pets and West Nile Virus?

From: Phobby

I have a senegal parrot that likes to go for rides in the car to visit friends and outside on the patio with me; however, I am afraid to take him outside because of the West Nile Virus scare. I can't wear repellent because I don't want to poison him by accident when we are playing and I am not sure that there is any repellent for birds. He has been my best buddy for 4 years now and I really don't want to do anything to risk his life. He is starting to feel a little left out when I go outside...and he lets me know about it!

Comments

West Nile Virus is spread by mosquito bites, so keeping your pet bird away from mosquitoes is the only sure thing to do. Never spray your pets with mosquito repellants, as birds as extremely sensitive to any chemicals. I urge anyone with any questions about West Nile Virus to go to www.cdc.gov and look at the information posted there. Susan L. Leck, DVM, ABVP

Dog's drinking problems

From: Donna M.

My dog has a problem where she will drink all of her water at one time, and then throw it up a couple seconds later. She has been like this ever since we got her, and she is now about 8 months old. Is there anything we can do to prevent her from throwing up her water? We keep her bowl filled, so I don't understand why she sees the need to drink it all at once. Thanks for your input!

Comments

Hi Donna - If this is an everyday occurrence, it is probably best to get her checked out (xrays and barium study may be needed) to rule out a congenital/hereditary problem with her esophagus. She may just be too 'vigorous' a drinker, and you might be able to slow her down by placing a large, clean rock or brick in the center of the water bowl, or perhaps putting lots of ice cubes in the bowl. You could also offer smaller amounts of water over a period of time until she seems satisfied. If there is any excessive urination going on, accidents in the house, or other health concerns, she definately will need an exam, and blood and urine tests. Hope some of this helps - let us know! Susan L. Leck, DVM

Magellan the Turtle

From: Heather Schlam

I'm afraid Magellan has passed. I soaked him for 30 minutes and then took him out to eat. I tried to feed him and was able to get his mouth open. But then it stayed open for at least a minute. I put the food in and closed his mouth. He retreated back in his shell. After I put him back on the ground his back leg spazed. He went into his shell. I put him in his tank for about 2 hours and went to check on him and he hadn't moved. After inspection I'm pretty sure he is dead. When I turned him over I noticed that bruised area you pointed out had spread along the whole bottom rim of his shell. I noticed when he was in the water his head would go under sometimes but it would come back up.

Would you be willing to do an autopsy? How much would that cost? I'm curious because I have a feeling it was internal with the bruises. Thank you for your help. He was more active today than I had seen him in the past week. I feel guilty that I waited so long for him to be seen and hope that I didn't accelerate any existing problems.

Comments

Heather - I am so sorry little Magellan passed away! I would be happy to do an autopsy (actually called a necropsy in animals) to see if we can tell what happened to the little guy - I wonder if he had an infected yolk remnant or something internal like you mentioned. Just let me know if you want to let me take a look. If we send out tissues to the lab, there is a fee, and in the meantime he would need to be kept chilled (not in the freezer, though, as that destroys the cells). Once again, I am so sorry for your loss! - Susan Leck, DVM

Day Care

From: melissa & jason

I recently saw something on TV about day-care for dogs. Both Jason and I are sometimes gone for 9-14 hours during the work week (because of the drive home, running errands, etc). We do not have the same days off, so at least one of us is at home with Bear during 4 days of the week. On the other three days, however, we are forced to leave him in his crate all day long (because his seperation anxiety causes him to rip things up, attempt to dig through walls, etc.)

I hope that if Bear went to day care, he wouldn't stress as much. And of course he wouldn't need to wait all day long to go out. I'm not sure what sort of effect it would have on him...?? I'm sure he would be frightened at first, but my hopes are that he would soon forget about the absence of his owners and play with the other dogs. I feel really guilty about leaving him alone during the days we both work... I believe he should enjoy himself all day long, not just when we get home at night!

Please let me know your opinion on whether or not Bear should go to day care...what you think about these places, if you think taking him would help/worsen his anxiety, if there are any day care facilities in Alpharetta that you would recommend, etc. Thanks in advance, Melissa & Jason

Comments

Hi! - I am not familiar with the various day care centers. Ask other friends, coworkers, neighbors,and family members for their recommendations. You could talk to Nancy about using Loving Hands for daycare those days that you need it. I think daycare for pets is a wonderful idea, but not all places are equal. Be sure to talk to the people about your concerns before leaving your pet there for the day. Good luck! Susan Leck, DVM, ABVP

Skin Color

From: Casey

Everytime I give a rub on my dog's stomach, I noticed the skin color is dark (brown/ purple) like bruise on her skin. In the past, my dog didn't have that until this year. The color can get darker or lighter anytime .

Would that be something I should follow up or is this normal for the dogs who are getting older?

My dog's name is Candy and she is a corgi/golden retriever mixed breed. Her age is almost three years old. You guys have met her thorough doctor visits.

Comments

Hi Casey - I would like to see Candy and look at the skin - bruising would be a serious cause for concern. I think you might be seeing normal pigment, or a condition called hyperpigmentation that we see in dogs with skin problems. Hopefully it is nothing to worry about, but anytime you are concerned bring Candy in for a quick checkup. See ya soon! Susan Leck, DVM, ABVP

Dew Claws

From: Trish

We just adopted a 4 month old puppy and she still has her dew claws but has already been spayed. Should we have them removed and when?

Comments

Hi Trish - this is a common question. I leave the dewclaws alone for the most part. If they are 'floppy' or incompletely formed, I remove them because it is relatively atraumatic and you run the risk of them snagging and getting torn off. Fully formed digits (the dewclaw is like our thumb) on the front and the rear should be left alone in my opinion. Why amputate a digit if it is not causing a problem? If you are uncertain about your pet's dewclaws, or if they are posing a problem, get them checked out by your vet. Otherwise, keep them trimmed regularly (every 2 to 4 weeks is best) and don't worry about them.

Am I hurting my dog?

From: Anonymous

I have an 8 month old dog who is absolutely the best dog ever.  I love playing with him and have taught him some really great tricks, "speak" being one of them. Lately, when playing with him, I'll pretend to howl which makes him do the same thing. I think it's really cute but my wife says that the reason he starts howling is because the sound I make is hurting him. Is she right? I would feel horrible if I knew that my playing around is hurting his ears.

Comments

It sounds like your dog is just "singing" along with his pack mate to me! I would think if the howling hurt his ears, he would try to get away from you and look at you strangely, not howl along with you. Perhaps it is your wife whose ears are being hurt! Susan Leck, DVM

Supplements to prevent burns on lawn

From: Karen

Hi Dr. Leck. With two large dogs in our family, we have significant urine burns (round, yellow, dead spots) on our lawn. I’ve seen products described as “all natural food supplements” that “work with natural amino acids and vitamins” to change the pH of urine so that it won’t burn the lawn.

Here’s my question: Are these products safe for the dogs to consume? If we have to choose between a healthy lawn and healthy pets, there’s no contest. (The lawn loses!)

Any other suggestions are welcomed as well.

Comments

Hello again - I have been unable to access my veterinary information network all weekend (why, I don't know - computer won't let me!) - but the information I could find indicated that it was the alkalinity of the urine that would kill the grass, and they were recommending urinary acidifying products. This can be quite harmful if your pet is prone to developing stones that like to occur in acid pH urine (instead of alkaline urine) - calcium oxalate stones being a very common example. In general I don't recommend this type of product because I do not believe enough is know about long term harmful effects, the risk of causing a problem (urinary tract stone formation), and the good general rule that if you have pets they are going to pee and possibly ruin your grass. Like you said, the pets win over the grass. Sorry I do not have more information for you. Susan Leck, DVM

Comments

Thanks for the information. That's exactly the kind of information I needed. Just because something is "natural" doesn't mean it's healthy to ingest -- for us or our pets. Based on the information you provided, I'm not willing to risk it.

Thanks again for the quality of care you provide to us, both inside your office and through the message board. - Karen

Bear is upset when we hug

From: Jason & Melissa

Bear has recently been getting increasingly upset whenever Jason and I hug or even just kiss on the cheek. The problem has become so bad that last night Jason simply put his arms around me while I was in the kitchen, and the dog barked as if threatened.

I know that this is typical whenever someone is trying to introduce a new person into the household, but I do not understand why Bear is acting like this since Jason and I actually live together and have had the dog since we moved in a few months ago. So Bear didn't have to accept anyone new, and its always been just the three of us . . . hugging never bothered him before.

What would cause him to be upset and what can we do to help Bear realize no one is being threatened?

(I thought it would be better to post a message so you could respond whenever its convenient, rather than to ask at work. Sorry I have so many questions!)

Comments

Hello - Refresh my memory if I am wrong, but Bear is not neutered, right? It sounds like he is showing a form of aggression towards Jason when Bear feels that Jason is threatening you (with a hug). Bear is being protective of you if his barking and aggression are directed toward Jason whenever Jason is in a position where he could "hurt" you (from Bear's perspective, of course". If Bear is not neutered, we need to do this as soon as possible. Please post some more details on what situations bring out this type of behavior. If Bear is taking Clomipramine for separation anxiety, sometimes that medication can bring out aggressive tendencies and we may have to alter his medication. Dr. Susan Leck

Comments

Bear had started to act like this some time before we started him on the medication; it seems to be working VERY well, too. I have been meaning to tell you that he has stopped hyperventilating when we put him in his crate now. (We still have to drag him to it but he no longer starts to panic.) He also has stopped being destructive. Before he started the prescription, Bear would literally break his wire crate every time we left (once succeeding in actually breaking the door off and escaping). We were really worried he would hurt himself. I am very grateful that the medicine has taken effect so quickly.

So far Bear has not shown any other signs of aggression. I will let you know if he does. We have been planning on getting him neutered as soon as it is possible (most likely this month). I still need to find out from Nancy the cost and when it can be done.

Rhodesian Ridgebacks

From: Warren

I'm interested in getting a Rhodesian Ridgeback. Does anyone have any experience with them?

Warren

Comments

We had a Rhodesian board with us every day for about a month and I got to know him well. He was something of an overpowering dog. The husband brought the dog in for day boarding as his wife was pregnant and could not deal with the dog at home. They also had a Rottweiler that did not board as the wife could handle it at home.

I used to walk the Rhodesian on two leashes because I was afraid he would snap one and run away. He was so tall I had trouble handling him because I could not snap his head up in a correction without drawing him up against my body as I might a smaller dog. And I'm 6.2. This particular dog did not seem overly aggressive but he could easily hurt people because he was very powerful and very assertive.

These dogs need lots of exercise. You need to have a fenced yard for them to run in or plan to walk them several miles every day.

When the Rhodesian was boarding with us, I used to walk him extra to keep him quiet. He barked really loud and tended to carry on more when he was bored.

I saw a young Rhodesian in obedience class when I trained my first dog. It seemed really well behaved but I think that was a credit to the woman who owned it.

They are beautiful dogs but you need to be prepared for the fact that they will demand more effort from you than many others. - Tom Denham

Comments

Thanks for the reply to Warren's question, Tom. I agree with what Tom says, and in general it is always a good idea to thoroughly research a breed before making a decision. Find out when a local dog show will be happening, and make a point of going and meeting some Rhodesians and their breeder. I have known many Rhodesian patients, and in general they tend to be sweet, but they are very strong and very large dogs, so a firm hand will be needed to control them and make them good canine citizens. Talking to a breeder or several breeders for their advice is a good place to start. Good luck! - Susan Leck, DVM, Diplomate ABVP

Seizures in Dogs

From: Salynda

I have a female beagle mix approx 2 1/2 years old and she just began having seizures in February. Since the 1st of Feb she has had 2...I am trying to find out what the typical course of action is at this point and how concerned I should be. She appears to be fine once the seizure is over but I know that it can't be good. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Comments

I am sorry to hear that your Beagle is having seizures. The general rule is to have your pet checked by a vet as soon as possible. When a pet is having more than one seizure a month, it is time to start on antiseizure medication. Most animals live a normal life on antiseizure medication, with an occasional seizure being unavoidable from time to time. The seizure medicine is to limit the seizures if not totally prevent them. Seizure become life-threatening when a pet seizes for a long period of time (several minutes or more) since the muscle contractions can lead to hyperthermia (overheating) and brain damage. This is why if your pet is seizuring it is important to see a veterinarian. Dogs may also have clusters of seizures, and seizure repeatedly over several hours, or several days. These seizures are typically more dangerous than a single, isolated seizure. Please have your pet examined, and have routine bloodwork done (CBC and profile) to rule out low blood sugar, liver disease, or other causes of seizures. If the bloodwork is normal, your pet PROBABLY has epilepsy. We do not understand why pets develop epilepsy, but it is common in Beagles in my experience. At Loving Hands we usually start patients on Potassium Bromide (KBr), a seizure medication that is gentler on the liver than Phenobarbital, which used to be the first drug used for animals with seizures. So in summary, see your vet and have an exam done on your pet. Do a comprehensive blood screen for diseases, and get started on anti-seizure medication, preferably KBr unless your vet says otherwise. - Susan L. Leck, DVM

Kidney Stones

From: Lesley

A friend of mine has a dog with severe kidney stones. The suggested treatment is submersion therapy to break up the stone with ultrasound. We are having a hard time finding a vet that actually performs this procedure. Any suggestions?

Comments

Hi Lesley - you are right, it is difficult to find a location where lithotripsy is performed. The only place I have heard of that might do it is Purdue University. Your friend's veterinarian needs to call around for her to find out what the options and cost are. Sorry I can't be of any more help - please let us know if she pursues this option. - Susan Leck, DVM

Dog is "smacking" constantly

From: Michelle

Hi, I am a friend of Melissa's, Jason's sister, and she suggested this site.

I have an 8 year old mini dachshund named Duke. Over the past 6 weeks or so, Duke has been constantly been "smacking" (and by constantly I mean whenever he is not sleeping, barking, playing or eating/drinking). Basically he is bringing his tongue out of his mouth and back in, back and forth. He's not actually licking his face, just bring his tongue about half way out. It's like he has something in his mouth, but when I check there's never anything there. I can't figure out what's causing him to do this, and it's quite annoying, as it does make a sound that we can hear when the house is quiet or when he's in our lap.

As a side note, almost all his life he has had a habit of licking the carpet, in any place, not where there have been spills. He has done this in each of the 4 homes we have lived in, including our new house which has never been lived in before. This is an annoying habit as well, and we can't seem to break him of it. I do not know if the two are related, since the carpet problem has been ongoing for years and the smacking problem is relatively new.

Thanks for the reply!!

Comments

Hi - I have a guess about what may be happening with your dog. I suspect he is nauseated, and that is why he is making the smacking sounds and constantly moving his tongue in and out. Please see your regular vet right away so that they can observe the behavior. They can do a full exam of the mouth (as well as the rest of your pet) to rule out other problems. Do NOT use any human over the counter products without consulting with your veterinarian first. Your pet may need an acid blocker or motility drug to help with this problem. If it is hyperacidity, your pet may be heading towards stomach ulcers, so do not wait too much longer before seeking a medical opinion from your vet. Good luck! Susan L. Leck, DVM, ABVP

Clumping Cat Litter

From: Steve and Holly Camp

We've heard pro's and con's about clumping litter. What's your call on it?  Holly

Comments

I asked JoAnne about clumping litter and her response was, "I like it." We use the Arm & Hammer variety at our house in our automated litter boxes. JoAnne's only concern was our dogs obstructing on it when they have been eating "cat cookies." JoAnne noted that research has found that cats like clumping litter better than the sand variety. - Tom Denham

Urinating/defecating outside of the litter boxes

From: Holly & Steve

Our cats, including the Woobies, like the clumping litter. I am also scooping daily and dumping twice a week for Hakuna (or he'll urinate right outside the boxes in protest).

With Felicity's "tail flagging", I looked around the baseboards of the house to see if there has been other sites where 'someone' has urinated. The answer is YES, YES, YES!!! I think it's both Felicity and Armani! I don't know if they've been doing this during the past 2 weeks since I changed my cleanup routine.

I also discovered that Armani has been defecating outside the box. When I clean the Armani location, I spray the spot with NILodor and he tends to leave it alone for a few days and then goes back to it. Now that I'm taking care of the litter boxes better, anymore suggestions? What about the smell? Thanks Holly and Steve

Comments

Hi! I'm not sure if I should insert my opinion here, but since I usually answer these questions I will take a stab at it. Not knowing what you have already discussed with Dr. Roesner, if anything I tell you is not in line with her opinion please contact her at the clinic to discuss the matter further. It is important to determine WHICH cat is the offender. We need to know if both cats are spraying in the house, so you may have to separate them (different rooms or board one overnight at the clinic) to discover who is having the problem. Any cat having "accidents" should have their urine and stool tested and a physical examination to be sure there is not a physical cause for the behavior. If we determine that the cause is behavioral, which it sounds like in your case, then we have to try to correct the behavior as you have already been instructed to do. Offering a minimum of one litterbox per cat per floor of the house, plus one extra litterbox, is a good place to start. Scoop the major nasties out of the box daily, and clean the entire box weekly. Do not use strong chemicals to clean or cover up smells, as these can be triggers for the cats to go outside the box. If you find a litter they like (preferably clumping), then stick to it and try not to switch brands. Use an odor eliminating product designed to remove urine and fecal odors from all soiled areas - if the carpet has been soiled frequently, the pad underneath may be damaged beyond repair (saturated with urine odor) and you should consider replacing the carpet and the pad. For problem kitties, confinement to a bathroom with food, water, and a litterbox may be necessary to retrain them to use the box. Gradual reintroduction to the rest of the house can then be done, ensuring that there are no "accidents" as the territory is expanded. Especially difficult cases may benefit from anti-anxiety medications, but again Dr. Roesner might have more information on your particular case and may already have discussed whether this is an option for you. As always, all pets in the house must be spayed or neutered. Try to think back to when this problem started, and see if you can find what triggered it. Did you switch brands of litter, did you change from a covered litter box to an uncovered litter box or vice versa, were there visitors in the house that stressed the cats? Again, I suspect Dr. Roesner went over alot of this information with you already....if not, please post another note and I will be happy to work with you as much as this forum allows. - Susan Leck, DVM, ABVP

Swelling

From: Melissa

As you know, Bear was neutered last month and released the same day because there was no swelling. for the next week, we were very careful with him and kept him inactive. however, at around 11 every night he did have a minor amount of swelling occur and we treated it with cool packs and just making him lay down and sleep. it usually went away in 10-15 minutes.

Lately he has started to swell and we have also noticed a slight redness around the area when this occurs. I was just wondering if this was normal or not... will it continue for the rest of his life? thanks - Melissa & Jason

Comments

Hi, Melissa! This does not sound normal, unless the swelling is an erection from being excited (and yes, that can happen even after neutering). Draw me a picture or bring him in and let me check the area to see what is going on. I suspect he is fine, but we need to make sure. - Susan L. Leck, DVM, ABVP

Comments

I will try to bring him in next week sometime. will you be there Friday? we both do not think it is caused by an erection. it does usually occur when he is more active, like after our walk or just whenever he is hyper. that is why I think it might happen when he comes to the clinic (you know how he is slippery floor there) I will also try to talk to you more about it today at work.

Cat Soiling Problem

From: Jill

Dr. Leck, I brought my cat, Emmie, in a few weeks ago for a behavioral consultation for urinating/defacating outside of her litter box. She has already ruined our carpet and we now have brand new carpet in our den. While the old carpet was gone, she would go to the bathroom in her 'usual place' on the concrete floor; she only did it periodically. The 'carpet theory' we came up with (that she had a carpet preference) does not seem to be the problem. We have now had our new carpet for 2 days and she has pooped on it 2x in the same place. I do not know what to do. I clean their 4 litter boxes several times/day, so they are spotless clean. I know what type of box and litter she likes, and she does use the box most of the time. Any reasons why she may be pooping on the carpet now and not using the box? Do you have any suggestions? My husband wants to get rid of her- do you know of anyone who would take her? Sincerely, Jill

Comments

Hi Jill - Can I just utter a sympathetic "ARGH!" for you? Confine the cat to a small bathroom with food, water, and litter. Find out if she refuses to poop in a soiled box. Some cats will not defecate in a box that has been used even once for urine or feces. Try to determine what the trigger is - soiled box? Time of day? If the problem disappears when she is confined alone, another cat may be a factor - some cats maliciously (?) chase others out of the litterbox as a form of dominance. Can you put a protective runner or plastic down in the area so cleanups are easier and the carpet is protected? Anybody with a house soiling cat understands the frustration this causes, and these cats are impossible to place in another home. Who wants a cat that they know is going to ruin the house? Going to a shelter will likely result in euthanasia. Many of these cats are declawed, making a switch to outdoor living unsafe (and outdoor living for cats in the city is unsafe anyway). The only option is to try to meet the cat halfway if we determine the problem is not going to go away - protect what needs protecting and do what you have to in keeping the problem minimized (scooping frequently). One last thing - if we haven't tried drugs on her, that is another option. There is no magic "anti-pooping/anti-peeing" pill, just human antidepressants that eliminate anxiety. Good luck and keep me posted. Susan Leck, DVM, ABVP

Increased Liver Enzyme Levels

From: Tracy

I have a seven year old male cat named Spike who has in recent weeks lost his appetite. As Spike has always been a picky eater, my husband and I have been altering his wet food constantly, trying to find something that peaks his interest. After not having any luck, we took him into the Vet yesterday to have him checked out. Turns out he's lost a pound and a half (he was only a 9 lb cat to start with). They did a blood and viral screen on him and turns out his Liver Enzyme level is elevated (527). The vet wants to check him into the hospital for two days and do a liver biopsy to rule out cancer.

Here's where I have a question: the vet also did a urinalysis on Spike and found he has a urinary tract infection as well as crystals in his urine. The vet did not at all mention any antibiotic treatment or FUS. Why not invest some time in treating his diet and urinary tract infection first before doing a biopsy? Is this normal, to rule out the worst possible scenario with an invasive surgery before trying antibiotic treatment?

Comments

Tracy - sounds like you have a sick kitty, and I am sorry to hear this. In the vast majority of liver diseases, we do need a liver biopsy to make the diagnosis. Was an ultrasound of the liver done? I worry that your kitty might have hepatic lipidosis or fatty liver, which is a secondary condition - meaning, some other illness set it off. If your cat is still not eating, he should be hospitalized and a full workup done to try to determine what is going on. This might include xrays, additional or repeat bloodwork, ultrasound, and quite possibly a biopsy. From what you tell me, it sounds like your cat needs antibiotics and fluid therapy minimally, and perhaps even a feeding tube if hepatic lipidosis is suspected. Talk to your vet - they have done an excellent job in the workup so far, but obviously they have a better idea what is going on with your cat than I do since I have not seen him. Which liver test was elevated? Alkaline phosphatase? If so, I really really worry about fatty liver. An increase in any liver test as high as you report is something to be taken seriously. If the ALT was elevated, was a thyroid test done to rule out hyperthyroidism? Ask your vet what you should do next. We frequently will ultrasound kitties and do a needle biopsy of the liver (not full exploratory surgery) and this is much less stressful to the patient although they usually need some form of anesthesia (and if fatty liver is suspected that would be an ideal time to place a feeding tube). It is best to check your cat's blood clotting ability before any type of biopsy is performed. While we cannot rule out cancer just yet, be sure we do all the tests we need to make the diagnosis, but also provide the supportive care your kitty needs while we wait for test results. Good luck! Susan Leck, DVM, ABVP