Questions and Answers:  Part 2

Rat Mammary Tumors

From: Melissa P

We recently removed two tumors from a 24 mth old pet rat. They were both located in the groin area, and one had invaded the muscle tissue and was of a trabeculae growth pattern. Neither were particularly vascular. I have another 26-month old with a tumor that is quite nodular on palpation. These tumors do not seem to follow the more encapsulated upper-body tumors I have seen (mostly in the "armpit" area). Is it normal for tumors in this area to be more nodular or is this more likely a carcinoma? We did not culture.

Also, do you know of any good resources on this topic?

Thanks!

Comments

Hi Melissa - you did not specify if you were a veterinarian, but your question sounded like you are, so forgive me if I am assuming something I should not. One reference I have is Hillyer and Quesenberry's Ferrets, Rabbits and Rodents Clinical Medicine and Surgery, and they state that less than 10% of rat mammary tumors are malignant adenocarcinomas. Unfortunately, without histopathology, you may never know what type of tumor you removed. I have not run across a rat owner who is interested in chemotherapy for their pet rat so far in 10 years of practice, and I have had many owners decline histopathologic analysis of the tumor to help keep the cost of surgery down. All of the rat mammary masses I have removed have been well encapsulated and "shell-out" easily during surgery. They have also been smooth and not nodular. I discuss risk of anesthesia with each owner, and assess the overall health of the rat before performing surgery. I have found that regardless of what type of tumor the rat has, they tend to grow rapidly, and I have removed several tumors that weighed more than the rat postop. My philosophy is to remove the masses to try to buy the rat as much comfortable time as possible, because they really are suffering when they are dragging around a mass that weighs more than they do. The Zoological Education Network is an excellent reference for those in the veterinary community - their website is www.zen-inc.com and they publish Exotic DVM magazine which is an excellent reference for any veterinarian working on exotic pets. If I did not answer your question, please write me again and I'll get back to you. Susan Leck, DVM, Diplomate ABVP

Snapping Puppy

From: Jane Howard

Our Wheaton Terrior is 11 weeks old and has the habit of nipping at our hands, faces, whatever is nearest him. We've tried whacking his nose and saying "NO BITE!" but that just seems to egg him on. Only when we really thump him does he get the message.

Is this alpha behavior? What can we do? Sometimes we put him outside for "time out", but I'm afraid that's just confusing the potty training.

By the way, he piddles little spots on the carpet several times a day. I know he can hold it, because he does when I crate him and go out...) I'm beginning to think potty training would be easier if I worked and left him in the crate all day so he doesn't get confused thinking he can potty on the carpet when my back's turned...

Any advice on these two problems? Thanks!

Comments

Hello - These are both common problems with new puppies, and both need to be addressed at the same time. House training takes some finesse. Everyone in the house must use the same cues for the puppy and be diligent in monitoring the puppy when it is out of the crate. We do not recommend crating a puppy all day long - it is better to come home mid day and let them out to get some exercise and take them outside. Puppies that are allowed to run around without supervision in the house will have many accidents. They should be watched closely, and at the first sign that they are thinking about 'going potty' they need to be taken outside - this can be as often as every 90 minutes. Reward your puppy when he or she goes outside in the right place. Punish your puppy by scolding when you catch them going potty in the house. Do not shove their face into the mess, and do not discipline them after they are finished - they will not understand why they are being punished. See your veterinarian for further help with housetraining. For the other problem of biting, you need to get this stopped as soon as possible. I urge you to make an appointment with your vet immediately so you can go over training exercises with the puppy. Doing the wrong thing can reinforce the bad behavior and create a dangerously aggressive dog. You do not want to get bitten, period. With that in mind, the first training step we usually go over with you is holding the puppy in a submissive position - hold them on their back in your arms until they will stay in that position calmly and quietly. Some will scream, snap, snarl, and fight to prevent you from doing this - this is the reason why you must have your veterinarian help you with this problem. We want to ensure the safety of you, your family, and your pet. Never let the puppy chew on your hands (or other body parts like toes), and be sure to provide appropriate chewing toys. A squirt gun or noise-making device (empty coke can filled with a few pennies) can be used to startle your pup while you say "No BITE!" Be sure to praise appropriate behavior. Get your puppy to your veterinarian today so that you can work on a building a good relationship and a model canine citizen. Please post any further questions here. Susan Leck, DVM, ABVP

Javy hates baths... really frightened...

From: David Reeves

Dr. Leck,

I've noticed that Javy is very frightened when bath time rolls around (he begins shaking, lowers his head and ears, etc.). I think that it goes beyond just "disliking" a bath. The sound of running water (even in the kitchen) scares him. When bathing him, if I fill the tub first and then place him in the water, he doesn't seem as frightened (although still fights it...) I've tried reassuring him with petting, talking, treats, etc. but he is still really scared. With the last bath (last night) he was so frightened that he had an accident in the tub. What do you think is causing this and how can I make him feel safe?

Sorry for all of the questions...

Thanks! David Reeves

Comments

Hi! Not poor little Javy! At the clinic he is very good for his baths, but it is not unusual for dogs to get nervous about bath time. Be sure that you have a non-slippery surface for him to stand on - I use an old bath mat for my dog Maggie. She has her head lowered and her ears back and tail down, and I just talk reassuringly to her and try to be quick and gentle with the bath. Try getting Javy used to the tub (with mat) without running the water. Place him in the tub and offer him treats and praise him. If he does okay with that, then start GRADUALLY running the water (start with a trickle or drip) and continue offering treats. If running the tub water is too scary at first, try running the sink water first and get him used to the sound. If you do this every day for only a few minutes hopefully you can get him to not be so scared. Some people actually join their pets in the bathtub to make it less scary, and you might want to try that with Javy if nothing else if working. Try these ideas, and please call us at the clinic or email me here again if I have confused you or you have further questions. Give Javy a kiss for me, too! Good luck, and I hope you can get the boy to tolerate his baths a little bit better. - Susan Leck, DVM

Comments

Wow, poor boy! He is so good for his baths here at the clinic and doesnt seem to stress. Our tub is not slippery so that may be an issue in the scariness. I also like to run luke warm water (not too hot. their temperatures are higher than humans so warm to us would prob be hot to them) and to be sure I dont get water in their eyes, nose, or ears. They hate that, I would too. Once you start, be quick. talk with him and keep on going. Amd be sure to give us a call to discuss in more detail if needed. - Cindy the groomer Muir

Cat urinating in box and then pooping on carpet

From: Burton

my cat has used the box all of its life till the last couple of months. Usually he only poops on the carpet when he is angery at us but he has nothing to be angery about. We just recently put vinigar down on the carpet, we were told cats hate the smell . . . is there anything we can do to get him to go in his box again. We have also tried to move the box, (he is a big cat) so as to give him more room and we took off the top as well . . . but he continues to do it . . . is there a medical condition i should be worrying about ? or is he just doinging it to get back at us?

Comments

Hi! Pooping outside the litterbox is a common problem in cats. Please have your kitty examined by a veterinarian to rule out a medical problem first. If your kitty has a clean bill of health, your vet will want a detailed behavioral history on your cat and this problem. When did it start? Was there a change in the household at that time (people visiting, holiday activities, etc)? Did the cat have any diarrhea or gastrointestinal upset? Did you change brands of cat litter or cleaners used on the litterbox? Any change with the box (location, covered vs. not, litter, odor from litter or cleaners or air fresheners, box too dirty in cat's opinion) can trigger this type of problem. See if you can remember something happening before this started. The rough rule of thumb is use one litter box per cat per floor of the house plus one extra litter box. This ensures adequate fresh litter is available. Scoop the major nasties daily, clean the entire box weekly. Try confining the kitty to a small room with food, water, and a litter box and see if he will poop in the box. A bathroom may be the best place in case of accidents. Use an odor eliminating carpet cleaner to get the soiling and smell gone from the carpet. If there is only one location your cat is having these accidents, try putting a litterbox there and see what happens. Offer a variety of litter boxes (large size for large cat), covered and uncovered, with a variety of litters and see if your cat has a preference. Many cats prefer the clumping litters that are available. As a final resort to the resistant carpet pooper, you can get carpet remnants and place them in a litter box. If the kitty will poop on the carpet, you can keep changing out the remnants and adding slowly a little more litter each week to try to retrain the cat to pooping on litter. The take home lesson from all this is: 1. see your vet and have your kitty examined first. 2. Talk to your vet about the behavior and the history of the behavior 3. consult your vet before undertaking the techniques I have detailed above to be sure these are the appropriate measures for your particular cat. Good luck and hang in there! Let me know if you have further questions, or just post an update for us. - Susan Leck, DVM

Geriatric Yorkie's Kidney Condition

From: Kathy

My fourteen-year-old Yorkie just had his geriatric exam. His blood work shows a low level of a thyroid enzyme (his reads 0.8; the normal low is 1.0). The vet suggested he be put on Thyroxin (sp?) to hopefully elevate the level. For his kidneys, his urea nitrogen level is 52; the "normal" range is 6 to 25. His BUN and creatinine level is 35; the "normal" range is 4 to 27. Is there some element or additive I should avoid/add in his diet that could help reduce these levels? Is there anything I can do for him to help reduce these? He has eaten Purina Little Bites for most all his life. I have begun to mix in Innova Senior. The mix is about 50/50 now.

Comments

Hi Kathy - 14 years old is great! You obviously take good care of your 'furry child' and seek the best in care for him. Feeding canned food, while it can accelerate dental disease, will help by increasing fluid intake. There are special diets available by prescription only through your veterinarian that are designed to help the kidneys by containing certain amounts of special proteins - ask your vet what diet they recommend for your pet. Innova is an excellent food line, but I am not familiar with the individual diets. If you did start your pet on thryoid supplements, your vet should have recommended rechecking the thyroid level (most commonly at least a T4 test) two to four weeks after starting the medication. It would be a good idea to recheck the kidney tests at that time, and you should also ask your vet about checking the urine specific gravity to see if the kidneys are concentrating the urine. If the urine is concentrated, the kidneys are still doing a fairly good job and the overall prognosis is better. Talk with your vet, and let us all know what happens. If you have additional questions, let me know. Good luck! - Susan Leck, DVM

Benefits of spaying in 1+ year dog

From: Karen
We have an appointment to have our Golden spayed in a couple of weeks. We’re definitely going through with it, so don’t think I’m trying to wimp out here. I just have a question…

Most of the articles on spaying and neutering focus on the benefits of spaying before the dog’s first heat cycle. (Our dog had her first cycle before she came to live with us, so that was never an option.) Other than the obvious – helping prevent unwanted litters – what are the benefits of spaying after the first cycle? I’m interested primarily in the behavioral benefits. Thanks for your help!

Comments

Spaying your female pet at any age has health benefits. Intact females are prone to breast cancer, uterine cancer, ovarian cancer, pyometra (uterine infection - life-threatening). Spaying reduces the risk. The best protection comes when you spay your pet BEFORE the first heat, but you also get good protection against breast cancer by spaying before the second heat. Behaviorally, spayed females tend to be less aggressive, will not have messy heats, and will be less likely to roam/escape in search of a boyfriend. I hope this answered your question, and I hope you can find it on the message board! Susan Leck, DVM

Aging Cat

From: Sarah Greer

I have a cat who is almost 16 years old and she seems to be forgetting things. We have several litterboxes set up in our townhouse and yet a lot of times she can't remember where it is. At least I think that's the problem. She has 2 places that she goes instead, both on the floor in our living room. We are about to have a baby and I can't let her keep this up. And its not really feasible to put litterboxes in the places that she goes. Any suggestions? Some additional info. We have 4 cats total, but they have been together for a while so I don't think she is jealous. She is also throwing up occasionally, usually by where she pooped. She throws up water and food. Her overall demeanor has not changed at all.

Comments

Hi Sarah - Has your kitty been checked by a vet recently? Older cats are prone to kidney disease that could cause the problems that you are seeing. Please get your old lady to a vet for a blood profile, thyroid check, and urinalysis to rule out a medical reason for the problem. For one cat urinating outside the litterbox, we recommend offering many litterboxes with a variety of litters - ideally 1 box per cat per floor of the house, plus one extra box. Most cats seem to prefer the clumping type of cat litter. Confining this cat to a bathroom or other small room with food, water, and a litterbox to see if she will urinate in the box should be your first step. Get your kitty checked out, and try confining her, and then get back to me about how things are going. There are many other things that can be tried, but we need to be sure a medical problem does not exist FIRST. - Dr. Susan Leck

Ragdoll Kitten

From: Frank Schmidt

We have two Ragdolls. One is perfectly fine. The little Seal Point, Lady Bandit, is four months old and is not from the same litter as the blue point. She was hand fed as a baby (do not know why) and we have had her to our vet several time for the following. 1. Runny left eye. Always the left and not continuously. 2. Periodic diarrhea. We have been feeding both kittens Iams kitten food. We have in the past few days switched to Science Diet. So far for the past two days she has not had an attack of diarrhea. Jury is not in yet on the food. We did receive medication from out Vet(Sulfadimethoxine) that was supposed to stop the problem but it made it worse, so after two days we stopped and then switched food. 3.Sneezing: She sneezes regularly. Left nostril is partially plugged. On occasion she will go through a real fit with multiple sneezes and we will usually be able to clean up a large amount of mucus and she is OK for a while. It is almost as if there is a relationship with the left eye and left nostril. When she 'sniffs' it is very audible due to the congestion.

While we live in Huntsville, I would be willing to drive to Atlanta if the possibility of helping her is there. I do not know when that would be but it is a possibility.

Understand you may not reply for some time. Your comments appreciated.

Comments

Hello Frank - The eye and the nose are likely related. Purebred cats from catteries will commonly be infected with feline herpesvirus, which can cause a chronic, lifelong battle with "cold" symptoms. The feline distemper vaccine we give to cats helps to protect them against the common viral upper respiratory tract infections. Does your other kitty get symptoms also (sneezing, runny eyes)? You can ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary ophthalmologist, or you can be referred to a university (Auburn, UGA) for the chronic nasal discharge if it is adversely affecting your kitty's quality of life. As for the soft stool, this can also be a chronic problem in some cats. We usually place cats on sulfadimethoxine if we diagnose or strongly suspect coccidia, an intestinal parasite that can cause diarrhea. If you did not do the full course of treatment, and your cat had coccidia, then your cat STILL has coccidia and could become very ill from this parasite, in addition to infecting your other cat.

My recommendations - review what you have used to treat the eye - have several different medications been tried unsuccessfully? Has the eye been stained and cultured? Has the tear duct (Nasolacrimal duct) been flushed, or is it possibly obstructed? These are all areas to consider with the eye. With the nasal discharge/sneezing - have you tried antibiotics? Prolonged courses of different antibiotics? Nasal cultures/flushes? Sinus xrays? These are all areas to consider with a chronic rhinitis/sinusitis. For the diarrhea, have you done multiple fecal examinations to rule out parasites (hookworms, roundworms, coccidia, giardia, campylobacter)? Have you sent a stool sample in to a laboratory for a fecal culture and giardia elisa test? Have you tried different diets and medications unsuccessfully? Sometimes we have to get even more aggressive and do biopsies of the intestines if no answers are found and if there is not a response to various treatments. Let me know if you have any additional questions - I have hopefully given you a lot to think about, and I recommend that you get some questions organized from your kitty's medical history and consult your vet as to how you should proceed from this point. You may have some more tests to run, or you may just want to try different medications and see what happens. Good luck, and let us know how your kitten does. - Susan Leck, DVM

Feline Pregnancy & Ticks

From: Mandi

My female cat is pregnant, and I'm trying to figure out how far along. Her nipples have come out, and she has been bulging noticeably for @2 wks atleast. Getting big fast, Any ideas? Thanks

Also, I've been experiencing a tick problem, I've found 4 ticks between my two cats in a matter of 4 days. Successfully removing them, can they harm my cats?

Comments

Without seeing your kitty, it is really hard to tell how far along she is. Were you planning on her having a litter? She can safely be spayed at any time, but if she is near term we prefer to let her have the litter. Schedule an appointment to have her examined so we can guesstimate how far along she is. A big problem with female cats becoming pregnant is that it is usually an unknown outdoor male cat that does the deed, and this poses a risk to your kitties of contracting feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus, both diseases are fatal with no cure available. Please call us or make an appointment to discuss the appropriate feeding and care of a pregnant cat. As far as ticks go, I would not use any pesticide products on the pregnant mother unless they are authorized for use in that way. Removing ticks within the first 24 hours nearly assures you that diseases have not been spread from tick to pet. Checking your pet carefully each day for ticks will limit spread of tickborne diseases. Outdoor cats should always be spayed and neutered, and must be vaccinated against feline distemper, feline leukemia, and rabies. Pregnant cats cannot be vaccinated as the fetuses might be harmed. I urge you to keep your cats inside so that if she has problems with the delivery you will know where she is and can get her to medical help. Good luck! - Dr. Susan Leck

Getting Puppy Neutered

From: Bonnie

Hi. I am planning to schedule surgery to have my Shiba puppy neutered in Oct or Nov. If the surgery is done early in the morning and there are no unexpected problems, will I be able to bring him home that afternoon/evening? Unless there will be someone in the clinic with him overnight, I'd really rather have him at home where I can give him lots of TLC and keep an eye on him - is this an option? Yep, I'll be the worried mommy waiting out front during surgery. I work in a small office and my puppy goes to work with me. He is usually quieter at the office than at home, but I'm wondering if I should do this at a time when I can be off to stay home with him for 2 or 3 days. Also, have the doctors heard of something called Rescue Remedy? Is this a good calmative to use at a time such as post-op? It's hard to keep a Shiba "quiet" more than a few hours at a time, otherwise he'll be trying to run the Shiba 500 in the living room before he really should. Hmmm - Considering his abominable hate/fear of getting his nails cut and subsequent behaviour when having it done, maybe we should do that while he is under too. (Dr. Roesner knows about this from past experience with him). Thanks, Nervous Mom, Bonnie 

Comments

Hi nervous Mom! We usually keep all surgeries like spays and neuters one night in the hospital, but we are willing to make exceptions if the parents of the patient will be home with the pet and will keep him or her confined. The main problem with sending them home is that they are very sleepy from the pain medication and must be kept confined so they will not hurt themselves. On the day you leave your baby with us, leave us a note next to your phone number on the treatment release form stating that you would like to take him home that day if possible. If you can schedule the surgery for Monday or Thursday, we are open until 9 pm and will have more time to monitor his recovery from anesthesia to ensure his safety at home that night. I have heard good things about rescue remedy, so it might be worth a try. We can also use tranquilizers (only if necessary) and extra pain medication for the first few days after surgery. Again, as a general rule, we will keep our routine spays and neuters one night in the hospital, but talk to us about your concerns and we will work out a mutually agreeable solution. - Dr. Susan Leck

Comments

Thank you for your reply regarding my puppy's neuter surgery. I feel a lot better now. I have scheduled it for Thursday, 10/19 with you doing the surgery. I do still want to bring Tali home Thursday night if we can work that out. I do not mind picking him up just before you close at 9pm and make sure he is confined as necessary and gets lots of TLC. I will secure some Rescue Remedy to keep him "quiet" and a little less active for whatever time period you advise. Again, thank you and I look forward to meeting you on the 19th. - Bonnie Day 

Comments

You are very welcome, and we will take good care of your baby. - Dr. Susan Leck

Puppy manners

From: Rob

Hi, I was wondering if you would be able to help me with my new puppy. My fiance and I rescued a 7 week old possibly German Shephard/Lab mix off the streets of Kalamazoo. We have had her about 4 weeks and she is a great dog except for one thing...she doesn't like children. We won't have a dog that isn't friendly to all people, especially because we plan on having children someday. Can anyone help? She is a great dog and we don't want to lose her but in the same respect we don't want her hurting anyone.

Comments

Hi Rob - Can you give details on how your puppy behaves around children? Specifically, does she seem fearful of them (cowering, shaking, head and ears down, tail down) or does she get aggressive (erect ears and tail, teeth bared, hackles raised)? Please give me as detailed an example of what she does around children and I'll do the best that I can to help you. - Dr. Susan Leck

Comments

When we go to visit others she seems afraid hiding behind me or my fiance but generally becomes relaxed after a while. When other adults come to our house she is at first afraid but warms up to them. The problem is the children. Away from home she acts as described above but at home she is afraid and doesn't really get used to them. However, when my 8 year old nephew came over all he did was walk in the door and she started growling and her hackles were raised. My fiance was afraid the puppy might bite him. Even after putting her in her kennel she continued to growl. We are led to believe that she was somehow abused by children before we rescued her. None of the children she has had contact with since we have had her have mistreated her at all. Also, she played with our nephew in their yard for a while just the night before the growling/hackles incident. What can we do? - Rob

Comments

It sounds like she is afraid of children. Are you sure the nephew did not accidentally harm her when they were playing? If she was fine with him the night before, but growled the next day, it is possible he tugged on her or poked her in a way that hurt her, and she associates him with unpleasant things now. When you have an animal that is afraid, you have to gradually introduce them to the item they are fearful of, ensuring that you keep their fear minimal and that they do not have anything unpleasant happen during the training sessions. With children, if you have friends or relatives with children who are calm and can be trusted to sit quietly and let your puppy get used to them, that would be a place to start. As long as she is not aggressive, and just fearful, you could sit with her on the floor and give her treats. Have a child approach slowly and quietly, ideally with dog treats in their hand for her. If she acts afraid, have the child sit quietly and see if through praise and treats you can get her to approach the child to take a treat from them. It is very important that the child not reach out to pet her or make loud noises. They can talk to her in a soothing voice (baby talk works) and not touch her, just let her come up to them and offer her treats on an open palm. If this works, and again do not do the above if she is acting aggressively, you can try it with more than one child. The goal is to desensitize her fear by showing her over and over again that children are good, that children provide treats, and that children are going to give her love and not punish her. Once the above works, then you can try having a child try to approach her more closely (calmly and quietly) and offer her a treat. Fearful dogs do better if you pet under their chin and on their underside - petting the top of their head and their back is an act of dominance on your part, so be sure the children do not do this. Let me know if you think this is something you could try, and if you understand what I am saying. Behavior work should take a while, and you have to let your dog set the pace. If she is too scared to approach the child, let the child GENTLY toss the treat in her direction (do NOT hit her with it) and then the child could get up and leave. Then you could work up to the rest we already discussed. If you have your doubts, consult a professional dog trainer and have them help you. Mistakes made now could last a lifetime, and if you want children of your own then you want to be sure we do this right. Good luck, and please write back with your comments and thoughts. - Dr. Susan Leck

Comments

Thank you doctor. Yes, I am positive my nephew did not harm the puppy in any way....I was with him them the entire time they were together. We will try to desensitize the puppy to children as you suggested. I will let you know how it turns out. - Rob

Introducing a new kitten to two older cats in our family

From: Linda

We just purchased a new Birman kitten (female, 3 mo old) and the transition is not going very smoothly. The older two Birmans we've had for 4 years don't appreciate this one bit and it's been a difficult two days. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Linda

Reply:

This is always a tough situation. Count on at least two to three weeks of noses being out of joint and hang in there. I like to switch locations around - put the kitten in a spare room with litter, food, water - let the adult cats get used to sniffing the kitten under the door. Then reverse their locations, so they can get used to each other's scents. You can also do this type of thing with a cat carrier - let the kitten stay in the carrier and let the adults check the kitten out by being outside the carrier. Then do the role reversal thing and put the adults in the carrier and let the kitten explore around them. Be sure you always supervise the interactions if you fear the adults will hurt the kitten. Be sure all cats have ample room to get away from each other with places to hide or get up high. Feed separately if there is competition at the food bowls (also keep adults out of kitten food or they will get chunky!). Does this help? If you have more specific problems, please write us back. - Susan Leck

From: Elaine S.

We just got a 10 wk. male named Max. We already own adult females named Rosie and Annie. Max is living in the bathroom and will be there at least a week. Annie's nose is out of joint about the newbie, and she's doing a lot of hissing. She even hisses at Rosie. We expect that in a week's time, Max will show no signs of new illnesses, and Annie will have had time to adjust to the idea of a newbie. Towards the end of the week of confinement, we'll open the bathroom door an inch, so they can glimpse each other. We'll give them Pounce treats a few times, so they'll associate the treats with the presence of the other cat. If all goes well, we'll allow Max in the house while the others are mousing in the garage. When they come back in, they'll smell his scent all over the house. In another day or so, with more glimpses through the slightly open bathroom door, we hope to let them meet.

This method has worked before, we pray it works this time, and we recommend it to you. Good luck to both of us!

Age for neutering male kitten

From: Nancy

Hi, I live in a remote area in Hawaii. I was given a male kitten that was born early to mid May,2000. We have a vet that comes to our peninsula about every 3-4 months. To take kitty out I would have to ship him out on a freight plane and then fly out myself, pick up the kitty, rent a car etc etc. I can afford vet care but not all the extras. The vet is going to come here on Sept 4. Is my kitty too young to be neutered then? He is an indoor cat and I don't want him to get any bad habits before the vet's next visit. Thank you very much.

Reply:

Hi Nancy,

At Loving Hands we neuter young kittens routinely. The criteria we use is weight. If a kitten is at least 2 pounds they are ready. Your boy can be done in September. Vets used to recommend waiting until 6 months old to neuter but research has indicated that young kittens recover from surgery even better than older animals.

Tom, Dr. Roesner's husband

Reply:

This is the first time I've used the net to get information like this. thanks so much for such a speedy reply. -Nancy

Diet and Feline Urological Syndrome

From: Pamela

My cat, Mollie, is a patient at Loving Hands (she was in May for spaying, shots, etc.). She's approximately 10 mos. old. I'd like to know when is the appropriate time to have her teeth cleaned and what the procedure would be, i.e., anethesia, etc. Also, she gets 2 cans of Fancy Feast per day and always has a bowl full of Purina One dry food formula for kittens (which she loves). Am I feeding her too much and is Purina One okay for her? If not, what brand should she be eating -- I'm concerned about Feline Urological Syndrome. Thanks for your help.

Reply:

Dear Pamela:

Mollie can probably go on adult cat food now - convert her gradually by mixing adult food with the kitten food (the Purina One dry) for a few days to be sure she does not get an intestinal upset. Use her physical appearance to judge whether or not she is eating too much - if she is getting fat, she may be eating too many calories. Getting her off the kitten food will help. You can always bring her by and we can advise you by looking at her whether or not she is getting too heavy. Feline Urological Syndrome, now called Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD), still has us perplexed. There are diets out there designed to help minimize the chance of this occurring, but no diet is guaranteed to prevent all flare-ups. There is no way to predict which cats are going to have problems. Females are better off than males because there is much less risk of them becoming "blocked" or obstructed (unable to urinate). Feed her a diet that says it helps to prevent the condition and you should be fine. Watch for abnormal urination (frequent trips to the box, accidents in the house, straining to urinate) as clues to a problem. Teeth cleaning is needed by most pets by age 3 years. Brushing Mollie's teeth can help decrease the frequency of visits to us for teeth cleaning. We have toothpaste for dogs and cats with special finger brushes at the clinic that you can purchase at any time. A technician would be glad to show you how to brush her teeth if you have questions. Some kitties need their teeth cleaned as early as 1 year of age. Watch for bad breath, a red line on the gums right above the teeth, or any broken teeth or signs of dental pain. Most cats that do not receive routine dental care at home require yearly visits for a dental prophy (scaling, polishing, fluoride treatment). We use Isoflurane gas anesthesia, which is the safest anesthetic we have. We cannot clean under the gumline on an awake animal as it is too painful. The recovery from the gas is very rapid, and the patient can go home the same day. The procedure takes about 20-30 minutes. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Dr. Susan Leck

Diabetes Diagnosis

From: Cheryl

My 6 year old tabby cat has just been diagnosed with Diabetes mellitus. We have been told it is very advanced. We have spent almost 100.00 so far and have been told he needs another $150.00 or so more tests done and then he needs to see a specialist who will put him on a special diet and he will need 2 shots of insulin a day. We have another cat and a puppy and I can't imagine being able to restrict Raisins' diet without him eating the ohter animal's food. We cannot afford this and have been told he can also develop other problems as a result of the diabetes. Would we be horrible people to ask to just have him put to sleep instead of going on with this? I feel awful even thinking about this but I don't want him to suffer and I can't afford this treatment. What should I do?

Reply

Dear Cheryl:

It sounds like you have had a fairly inexpensive workup on Raisin at this time. I have a diabetic dog, and I can tell you that managing her is not all that expensive or difficult. It does require observation of her drinking, eating, and urinating habits on your part at home, but the insulin and syringes are very inexpensive. I would make an appointment to sit down and talk to your vet about your financial concerns. No diabetic animal should have to be euthanized just because they are diabetic. If complications arise, medical care can become very expensive, but if you can get your kitty on an appropriate amount of insulin by following your veterinarian's advice, hopefully you will have minimal additional expense to manage your cat. Separate your animals and feed them meals. Do not leave food out all the time. This way each pet gets the food that they need, and your diabetic pet will be better managed with 2 meals per day. If you have additional questions, please let me know. Dr. Susan Leck

I want to breed my Lab

From: Wayne Ellington

I want to know if anyone can put me in contact with others who want to breed their Labs. I have six year old black lab of English breeding. He has a big block head and great temperment. I would like to find a suitable female for him to mate.

Comments

Hi Wayne. I wish you good luck with your hope to breed your dog, and I would like to take this space to educate those unfamiliar with breeding dogs about some of the problems you may face. If you want to breed your dog, ask yourself why. The main people who should be breeding dogs are owners of purebred dogs who have proven they have the right stuff in the showring. Pet quality dogs should not be bred. If your dog is not a champion, please think long and hard about whether you should be bringing a litter of puppies into the world when there is a serious pet overpopulation problem. Every animal you bring into the world takes a home away from one in a shelter waiting for adoption, and ensures that another animal has to die because there are not enough homes for them all. Be sure your pet is free of inheritable genetic defects. Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, congenital cataracts, heart disease, aggressive disposition, allergies, and many other conditions have a hereditary component. Purebred dogs should only be bred if they are free of genetic defects they may pass on to their young. Mixed breed dogs should never be bred, especially to "create your own breed" or to create a breed that you think is better than the two breeds you are pairing. Again, pet overpopulation KILLS dogs and cats. It is sad that our society treats our companion animals as throwaway items, but until people regard this as an injustice to our pets, it will continue. If your pet is indeed an animal of high quality with no defects it can pass on, be sure that the animal you are considering as it's mate is of the same caliber. Two people with two dogs of the same breed should NOT pair their dogs unless they know something about their dogs and about breeding. Just because you love your dog does not mean it is breeding material. Bad things can happen to dogs that are bred, and to dogs that are not spayed or neutered. Intact (unaltered) animals are at a high risk of cancer, reproductive organ infections, and other problems. Brucellosis can be transmitted during mating and is contagious to humans - every breeding animal should be tested first. Transmissible venereal tumor is a cancer your pet can get from contact with an affected animal. Know what you are getting into before you breed. Female dogs can DIE during the birthing process if there is a problem. The puppies can DIE. Miscarriages can occur. The mother can have seizures if her calcium falls too low. The mother can get mastitis (breast infection and inflammation) and be unable to nurse, meaning you will have to feed the puppies every two hours around the clock. Bad things happen to good people and good animals, and you need to be aware of the risks going into breeding. If you are not prepared to deal with the potential loss of mother and pups, you should not breed. If my comments have caused you to rethink breeding your pet, that is my intent. I have seen too many bad things happen to good people, and I have seen too many animals that have had to die because they do not have homes. Please spay and neuter your pets, and do it as early as possible to give them the longest, healthiest lives possible. If you have any further questions or comments, please let us know. The doctors at Loving Hands Animal Clinic are committed to your pet's health, and we are glad to answer any questions you may have. Susan L. Leck, DVM, Diplomate ABVP

Comments

I too want to ditto some of the comments that Dr Leck made regarding breeding your dog. I have show dogs that I have also bred. I thought long and hard before i ever bred as I had seen too many nice dogs and cats put to sleep/killed just cause there were no homes for them. I decided and learned that the only reason to breed is if you think you can improve a breed. One way to be sure you have the quality of dog that could be bred is to prove their worth in the show ring and comparing them in a more objective way to others in the ring side by side. I have bred two litters in the past 3 years and have finished championships on both girls first. Then you also want to be sure they are healthy and free of genetic defects. Before breeding, I have all the known health problems in my breed checked first and make sure they are clear. i have their eyes checked by a canine eye doctor, their hips and knees checked, their hearts cleared, and make sure they dont have any skin problems or allergies. I study pedigrees on the prospective mates to try and ensure they also are not carriers of health problems and are compatable in their genetic makeup. I also study books on pedigrees, breeding, and have mentors in my breed who know the individual dogs for many generations back. When i have puppies, I breed only for myself for show purposes and to try and establish a certain type or line of griffons. Any that go as pets are spayed before they go, microchipped, and go on a written contract with a life time return guarantee. They cannot be sold or given away without going through me first. As the owner of a male who finished #3 in the country last year in his breed, I feel the same committment to any puppies he sires as I do to any born in my home. I require the girls also have the same health clearances plus brucellosis testing, and that i have say so on where the puppies go. Please consider carefully before breeding any animal. Look in the paper at all the labs and lab mixes to be given away. Check out the shelters too. And get involved in your breed rescue. I think if you dont rescue, dont breed. -Cindy